The Complete Guide to Masonry: Stone and Brickwork

Masonry work or brickwork conjures images of pretty suburban houses, rustic stone cottages, and even heritage homes… It’s so easy to forget that it’s good for more than just curbside appeal! It protects your home during inclement weather, helps keep the temperature consistent indoors, and serves as the outer layer of your building envelope. It protects your home’s structure, so you want to keep it in good condition.

Whether you’re looking to bolster your masonry knowledge or need help with picking brick siding that fits your needs and budget, you’re in the right place. From home inspection tips and the latest material trends to hiring the right contractor, here’s everything you need to know before starting your masonry construction project.

What is stone or brickwork?

Masonry work involves using structural materials like brick, block, stone, and mortar to build foundations and exterior walls. It also includes routine maintenance, such as performing inspections and repointing, and repairing issues like bulging brick.

Of course, masonry also refers to the skilled trade performed by a brick and stone mason.

What is a bricklayer or mason?

A brick and stone mason builds and repairs walls, floors, chimneys, and more! Though, their actual job descriptions vary slightly based on the governing province.

In Quebec, licensed masons are able to install masonry like brick and stone, gypsum board, concrete, and necessary support materials, such as anchors and lintels. Meanwhile, in Ontario, a certified brick and stone mason can work with blueprints, sketches, specifications, applicable codes, and manufacturer information when building a structure.

Inspections and common problems with masonry

Much like any other part of your home, your masonry needs routine maintenance to keep it in good shape. During late autumn and early spring, take some time to inspect your exterior walls for any damage or signs that you need masonry work done. It’ll help you catch potential issues early on. Timely repairs can also help prevent more serious problems like water infiltration (leaks), heat loss, and foundation cracks.

Masonry inspection

Inspections involve assessing parts of your masonry, such as the stone or brickwork, mortar, and foundation, and making note of any anomalies and potential issues. They can be done a few different ways.

• Visual inspections. This involves looking at easily accessible parts of your brick siding and adjacent features, such as the basement foundation and nearby landscaping. The focus is on things like deteriorating brickwork and efflorescence.
• Tactile inspections. To perform a tactile inspection, you or your contractor will need access to your masonry. Poke, prod, and touch the materials to see if they’re performing well. This type of inspection can reveal issues like loose bricks and sills, crumbling mortar, and clogged weeps.
• Tool-assisted inspections. Some inspectors use tools to detect problems with stone and brickwork. For example, thermal imaging can reveal water leaks and poor insulation, while a drill can be used to check for hidden problems like mould.

These methods can be used to check for the following masonry problems.

Bulging brick wall

If part of your brick siding is swelling, you may be dealing with bulging brick. This is usually caused by one of two issues: trapped moisture or damaged masonry anchors.

Deteriorating mortar, cracks in walls, and blocked weep holes can all cause excess moisture to seep in and get stuck behind your brick siding. As the temperature changes, the water freezes and swells. This puts pressure on the walls, causing them to bulge outward. 

Masonry anchors attach brick or stone to structural supports like concrete columns or wood sheathing. If they’re damaged or rusted, they may weaken or break, causing the masonry to bend or detach.

In some cases, bulging brick can cause entire sections of a wall to collapse. If this happens, the affected area (and sometimes the entire wall) will need to be replaced.

Vertical crack

Brick and stone are pretty rigid, so it’s normal to find small vertical cracks in your masonry over time. These often show up in newly built homes as the foundation settles. They can also be caused by temperature fluctuations, water infiltration, poor or blocked drainage or moisture ventilation, and construction error (e.g., using the wrong mortar).

Remember that your brick siding needs to breathe, so remove any vines growing on it and keep your weep holes clear so that water and moisture can escape. This’ll help prevent larger cracks from forming as well as bulging brick.

Here are the two types of cracks:

• Passive crack. If the cracks in your brickwork don’t expand after a winter or two, then they’re passive. They usually show up over time with age and aren’t dangerous over the long term. A mason can repair them with some caulking, epoxy, or an expansion joint.
• Active crack. Cracks that continue to expand across your masonry are considered active and potentially dangerous. Here you’ll want to call a mason to determine the cause (e.g., house sinking, poor drainage, freezing) and carry out the necessary corrective work.

Spalling brick

If your brick siding is flaking, then you’re likely dealing with spalling brick. This happens when moisture gets trapped in brickwork, usually after heavy rain or melting snow, and then freezes due to a drop in temperature. Over time, this cycle causes the brick to fracture and crumble.

Here are a few causes of spalling brick:

• Mortar. The most common cause of spalling brick is using the wrong mortar. Your mortar needs to be compatible with your brick or stone siding; if it isn’t, then all of it will need to be repointed.
• Moisture. Constant rainfall, poor drainage, muddy terrain, and even condensation can cause spalling brick. You can divert water accumulation away from your brick siding with a good roof drainage system or a French drain. If you’re planning to invest in masonry work, then consider an air barrier system. 
• Waterproof paint or sealant. A lot of homeowners think that waterproofing brick masonry will help prevent leaks. While it does prevent water from getting in, it also prevents it from getting out. Bricks need to breathe to let moisture escape!

As long as the wall isn’t too far gone, this issue can typically be addressed by replacing damaged bricks and using the right mortar.

Rusted angle iron or steel lintel

An angle iron, also called a lintel, is an L-shaped piece of metal. It’s installed behind the brick siding, above windows and doors. It supports the masonry above these openings. Like any other piece of metal, a lintel can rust and deform. If that happens, it’ll need to be replaced quickly. Otherwise, the brick or stone will sit directly on the opening, which will cause cracks, water infiltration, bulging brick, or worse.

Efflorescence on brickwork

If there’s a white chalky powder on your brick, then you’re dealing with efflorescence. It forms after excess moisture evaporates and leaves behind the dissolved salts. Usually it’s an aesthetic issue, but it can be a sign that your brick siding is dealing with high humidity levels or water infiltration. Either way, it’s good to get it checked out by a qualified mason just to be sure.

Mortar deterioration

Salt, pollution, temperature fluctuation, freeze–thaw cycles… all of these things wreak havoc on your mortar. Over time, it crumbles and leaves gaps in your brick siding, giving water and moisture an easy way in. If water gets trapped during a freeze–thaw cycle, it can damage the anchors or cause the wall to swell (bulging brick). 

To avoid structural problems, have a mason or bricklayer examine your mortar. If the damage is minor, they’ll fill in the gaps with new mortar to prevent it from deteriorating further. However, if it’s in bad shape, then the wall will have to be dismantled and rebuilt.

Cost of masonry work

Nailing down the cost of stone or brickwork is a bit tricky – it largely depends on the type of project you need done. The Association des entrepreneurs en maçonnerie du Québec says that masons and bricklayers in Quebec typically charge around $84.21 per hour, but, in Ontario, the cost seems to be closer to $144 per hour. Here are a few factors that can influence the cost of masonry work:

• Time required to do the work
• Number of workers
• Type of construction material
• Location of work site
• Equipment transport distance
• Use of scaffolding
• Street closure requirements

Let’s explore a few of these in greater depth.

Brickwork: Heritage restoration and repair

Heritage homes and masonry need special care. You can’t add Portland cement to soft moulded brickwork and call it a day – it can cause serious problems like delamination and spalling! These structures were built using older construction principles, after all. If you need to repair them, you’ll need a contractor that has experience with heritage materials and methods.

If your brick siding was built before 1930, there’s a good chance that it was constructed with lime-based mortar. It’s more porous than cement and allows moisture to get in and out. It served as a failsafe: worst-case scenario, the mortar would fail before the brick or stone would. This makes repairs a lot easier, as repointing is much simpler than rebuilding a wall.

In general, heritage masonry restoration and repair tends to be more expensive since it requires specialized knowledge. In some cases, your contractor will also need to keep track of where each brick or stone belongs in the construction. That said, it’s worth the investment. Since they’re familiar with brick matching for heritage projects, they’ll be able to preserve your façade!

Brick siding and mortar options

Whether you’re building your dream cottage or renovating your brick siding, you’re guaranteed to find a masonry material that suits your taste. A lot of homeowners go for basic burnt clay bricks, but there are other options out there, such as concrete, sand lime, and fly ash bricks.

If you really want to boost your curbside appeal, consider natural stone cladding. Glittery quartzite, durable limestone, gorgeous granite, smooth marble… there are a myriad of options to choose from in a variety of colours.

Of course, you can’t forget about mortar: it’s the glue that holds your brickwork together! About a fifth of your visible wall will be mortar, so be sure to pick a colour and application technique that complements your brick siding.

Remember that each siding and mortar option has its pros and cons. Before your decisions are set in stone, be sure to ask a professional for advice. While you can combine brick, stone, and mortar in a variety of ways to achieve a unique look, it’ll have a big impact on the aesthetic as well as the price of the project.

Impact on useful life

Stone and brick siding are durable, weather resistant, and low maintenance. They’re also eco-friendly and will retain their colour over the years. That said, the price correlates with quality. If you want siding that will last a lifetime, make sure there’s enough room in your budget for high quality materials.

Impact on the bid

Whether you’re getting a quote for brick siding restoration, new masonry walls, lintel installation, or just regular maintenance, the prices received will reflect the quality. Good quality materials will drive up costs, influencing the overall price and the work needed.

Masonry work materials: Brick, stone, and mortar

All in all, it’s (not) just another brick in the wall. Whether you’re looking to leave a lasting impression on visitors or to wow passersby, quality masonry is key. That said, choosing masonry materials can be overwhelming, especially if you’re not familiar with what’s on the market. So, let’s go over the most popular bricks, stones, and mortars to make things easier.

The building blocks of brickwork

When it comes to brick siding, most people think of the red-brown masonry on schools and residential homes. It’s the most common type, after all! If you don’t love the idea of having flat terracotta walls, don’t worry – there are lots of other options to choose from for your brickwork project. Let’s start with the basics: the different types of bricks on the market.

• Hollow bricks. Classic hollow bricks not only provide better insulation than solid bricks, but their holes also offer great interior ventilation and prevent moisture build up. Note that you’ll need more exterior insulation to optimize your building envelope. 
• Solid bricks. These terracotta bricks may come at a higher price point, but they’re truly built to last. With them, you won’t need any extra insulation and you can rest assured knowing they’ll withstand moisture and erosion.
• Cellular bricks. Better insulation, soundproofing, reduced humidity… what’s not to love? Cellular bricks are thicker than the average brick and come with a slew of advantages. They’re also heavier on the wallet.
• Refractory or fire bricks. If you’ve got a fireplace or chimney, you’ll need some refractory bricks. This fire-resistant building material can withstand temperatures up to 3,000°C and provide excellent insulation.
• Face bricks. Full of beauty and grace, these aesthetic bricks come in a variety of colours and textures. Don’t be fooled, though – they aren’t for veneer. In fact, they’re quite solid and weatherproof.

Brick siding: Materials and manufacturing methods

Bricks used to be made of shaped clay left out to dry in the sun, but we’ve come a long way since then! Now, they’re made using a variety of materials and techniques, each yielding unique properties. From classic fired clay to moulded concrete, here are some of the most common types of brick by material and how they’re made.

• Burnt clay bricks. These are the classic reddish bricks you see in everything from masonry walls to columns. Burnt clay bricks have a relatively simple manufacturing method: wet clay is moulded into the right shape, air-dried, and then fired in a kiln.
• Sand lime bricks. Strength, durability, colour… they’ve got it all! These bricks aren’t made using kilns like burnt clay bricks. Instead, a mixture of sand, fly ash, lime, and pigment (optional) is cured in moulds.
• Concrete bricks. If you’re looking for a brick to bring your urban-meets-industrial aesthetic to life, concrete bricks are your best bet. They’re made by pouring (pigmented) concrete into moulds and letting it cure. Concrete bricks are porous though, so don’t use them underground.
• Engineering bricks. These exceptionally strong and low porosity bricks are typically used in civil engineering projects, but you can find them in residential buildings as well. Engineering bricks are made by firing a clay-based mixture at a very high temperature to harden the molecular structure.
• Fly ash bricks. These environmentally friendly bricks are strong, durable, and lighter than traditional clay or concrete bricks. Fly ash bricks are made by firing a mixture of unwanted industrial waste materials like fly ash, cement, and sand. They’re often used for structural walls, foundations, and pillars.

Bonds and patterns in stone masonry

A bond pattern refers to the way that bricks or stones are laid. While the patterns differ for brick and stone, they all have one thing in common: the joints are staggered so that your wall doesn’t collapse. Here are a few different bond patterns for stone masonry.

• Random rubble. In this bond pattern, stones of different shapes and sizes are stacked to create an aesthetic wall. It’s often used for residential buildings.
• Coursed rubble. Rough cut stones in set sizes are arranged into patterns. Some classes of coursed rubble use stones with uniform height, leading to regular courses. Others feature stones and courses with varying heights.
• Random ashlar. This bond pattern is similar to random rubble in appearance. The stones vary in shape and size, and the joints don’t need to line up.
• Coursed ashlar. Stones in this bond pattern are a uniform size and are laid so that the vertical joints alternate. Courses are generally the same height but, in some designs, may alternate to strengthen the wall.
• Block-in ashlar. The stones in block-in ashlar vary in length but all have the same height. They are laid in courses.
• Monolithic. Keeping it simple, a monolithic bond pattern features a uniform wall. All stones and courses are the same height.

Types of mortar

Mortar is used by bricklayers and masons for most brickwork projects. Playing the essential role of binder, it helps create one cohesive unit. Several types of mortar exist, each with its own particular function.

• Type N mortar is recommended for exterior use, especially above-grade, non-load-bearing walls. It’s also good for interior non-load-bearing partition walls.
• Type O mortar comes in premixed bags. It’s specially designed for use in repointing projects. 
• Type S is used for above-grade, load-bearing walls and parapets; above- and below-grade foundations; supporting walls; and interior load-bearing walls.
• Type M offers the greatest compressive strength. It is used for foundation walls, load-bearing walls, and non-load-bearing walls.
• Type K is the weakest of the bunch. It contains the most lime, which increases workability, water retention, and adherence.

Choosing the wrong mortar is one of the most common mistakes in brickwork. The mortars you find at the hardware store are typically made up of cement, sand, and water. Compared with lime pointing, they are less durable and watertight. And of course, damaged mortar wreaks havoc on your exterior cladding – it lets in water and condensation. That is why it’s a good idea to leave this kind of work to an expert mason or bricklayer!

Useful life of masonry walls

Brickwork is one of the most durable exterior cladding options out there. It stands strong against inclement weather and temperature changes, isn’t affected by pests or mould, and makes a great fire barrier. It also adds decent soundproofing. Well-built and maintained brick siding can last 75 years or more.

The first thing to go is usually the mortar, so you’ll need to keep an eye on it and get it repointed every 50 to 100 years. If you’re not sure if your mortar needs some love, get an inspection done. It’ll save you the hardship of dealing with water infiltration and bulging brick after a freeze–thaw cycle later on.

Brick siding and sustainable development

Folks looking for an eco-friendly exterior siding solution will be happy to hear that brick is one of the most sustainable options out there. It’s mostly made up of clay, a natural and renewable material whose extraction methods don’t pollute the environment. There’s no chemical treatment or process in the manufacturing method either. Once formed, terracotta bricks are fired in a kiln. This part can create some pollution if powered by non-renewable energy sources.

Add in its long lifespan and low maintenance requirements, you can easily see why it’s one of the best sustainable home design options on the market.

Brickwork and recycling

This is where brick siding really shines. If the mortar is carefully removed, intact bricks can be reused in new projects. Even damaged or destroyed bricks are useful. Since they’re made of natural materials, they can be composted. If that’s not up your alley, then they can always be recycled into aggregate, mortar, or concrete.

Different components of stone or brick siding

Your masonry is made up of more than just brick or stone – there’s also the mortar, anchors, and flashing. These elements not only influence the visual appearance of your home but also its structural integrity. That said, anchors are the most important part of your masonry. They transfer the weight of the wall towards the building structure, preventing it from moving or toppling.

Cladding

Cladding refers to the outermost layer you see when you look at the outside of any building or home. In most cases, it’s made up of exterior siding, brick, and/or stone. It hides the insulation, waterproofing layers, electrical, plumbing, and vents, and, outdoors, it stops inclement weather from damaging the structure.

Repointing

Repointing refers to touching up the mortar between stone or brickwork. It strengthens your wall and prevents water from getting in.

Flashing

Flashing is a waterproof trim that’s installed at key points in brick siding, such as the base of a wall or underneath a window sill. It’s typically made of a peel and stick membrane or shaped metal. Internal flashing catches moisture and water that manage to get into the brick or mortar and gently redirects them back outside through weep holes. External flashing can be found where the roof meets a wall. It prevents water from making its way into the cladding.

Weep holes

If you take a look at your brick siding, you might notice a few joints with no mortar. Don’t fret – these are weep holes. They help trapped water find a way out and allow air to circulate freely. They also prevent efflorescence build up. Missing or blocked weep holes in your stone or brickwork can lead to serious water accumulation and even bulging brick.

Sills and lintels

Window sills or ledges are located underneath the windows of a home. They’re part of the wall, and they prevent water from getting into the masonry below it. Lintels, on the other hand, are beams located above doors and windows. They support the weight of the structure above these openings and transfer it to the adjacent masonry.

Insulation and sealing

Behind the stone or brick siding lie the insulation and sealing materials. Insulation prevents heat transfer, while air sealing prevents heat from escaping your home. When combined, the two can greatly reduce your heating bill during the winter months.

A sheathing membrane covers the exterior-facing part of your insulation. It protects it from water (and sometimes air) infiltration, as well as temperature changes. It also gives humidity a space to circulate and evaporate without causing damage to your home’s structure.

Anchors and ties for masonry

There are two main components that help stabilize your stone or brickwork: anchors, which connect your masonry to structural supports or framing, and wall ties, which connect your siding to the internal walls. Both play a crucial role in helping these parts act as one cohesive unit. It’s a good idea to inspect these elements regularly, as damaged masonry connectors can lead to structural instability and collapse.

Frequent errors in building a masonry wall

In Ontario, brick and stone masonry is a non-compulsory trade, meaning that you don’t need to be a registered apprentice or a certified journeyperson to work in the field. That said, it is worthwhile to hire an experienced professional who has obtained a Certificate of Qualification in this Red Seal trade.

Since you don’t need a licence, you can technically do your home’s stone or brickwork yourself to cut down on renovation costs, get a feeling of accomplishment, or both. Just keep in mind that watching YouTube videos on bricklaying and buying quality materials won’t guarantee a good wall. At the end of the day, this type of work requires a lot of knowledge and skill. So, here are some common mistakes to avoid.

Laying the brick sequentially

Much like with clothing or yarn, brick colours vary based on the run and the pallet. If purchasing more than one pallet, be sure to alternate between them when bricklaying to prevent colour pooling.

Forgetting to seal the brickwork

A good sealant will prevent both moisture penetration and efflorescence. Normally, a breathable sealant or water repellent is made of siloxane or silicane and is applied directly to the brick siding. Brick needs to breathe so that moisture can evaporate and escape, so make sure no one is using a waterproof or non-breathable product.

Using the wrong mortar

For a sturdy wall, the mortar has to have the same water absorption capacity as your brick. It also needs to be the right type of mortar for the project. For instance, repointing mortar can’t be used interchangeably with laying or reinforcing mortar.

Building on wet mortar

Brickwork should be given an opportunity to dry every seven courses. Anything more than this runs the risk of lowering the resistance and durability of the mortar. Several factors influence drying time, including the weather and the type of mortar used.

Failing to protect fresh mortar

Fresh mortar contains a specific ratio of sand, binder, and water. While still wet, it needs to be protected from moisture and rain to keep the mixture intact. If additional water gets into the mortar, it could negatively impact its performance once dry.

Leaving messy mortar

Mortar is the glue that holds your brick siding together. Be sure that any excess or spilled mortar is cleaned off your brickwork while it’s still wet – it’s difficult to remove once dry. Having clean stone or brickwork and lines on your masonry will make repointing easier later on, as well.

Forgetting to reinforce your brick siding

Anchors and ties help keep your masonry attached to your home’s structure, but more than that is needed to ensure that your wall will stand strong. Masonry movement joints (i.e., control, expansion, and isolation joints) help with freeze–thaw cycles and temperature fluctuation, while steel reinforcement rods (or mesh) balance heavy compression loads and pressure. Both help prevent cracks in your masonry.

Some areas of your brick siding, like the space around a large window, will require expansion joints or reinforcement mortar.

When is the best time to repair masonry?

Missing mortar, cracked or loose bricks, bulging walls… if you notice issues with your stone or brick siding, you need to act fast. A lot of external factors, including freeze–thaw cycles, can exacerbate existing problems and lead to an unstable or collapsed wall.

That said, weather does impact the quality of the materials. For example, sub-zero temperatures can freeze the water in fresh mortar, resulting in incorrect material ratios. This has a major impact on the mortar’s ability to withstand cold temperatures and makes it more likely to crumble or crack.

In general, it’s best to get masonry work done during spring or autumn.

When should I start looking for a masonry contractor?

The earlier, the better. Masonry contractors get booked up quickly during spring. So, if you’re aiming to get stone or brickwork done during that time, reach out to potential contractors during autumn or winter. You be able to choose the right contractor and renovation dates that work for you.

Questions to ask your bricklayer or mason

Choosing a contractor can be tough. You need to take some time to check qualifications and compare prices before you can make an informed decision. Here are some questions to ask a prospective contractor before signing on the dotted line.

• Do you have a 4.1 licence from the Régie du bâtiment du Québec (Quebec only) or a Certificate of Qualification (Ontario only)?
• Do you have contractor liability insurance?
• How long have you been in business?
• Are you partnered with a manufacturer?
• If so, do you use products from that manufacturer?
• What guarantee do you provide on masonry work?
• How long will the work take?
• Is the price of the work likely to increase during the project?
• Who will be the main point of contact?
• What are the terms of payment?
• What precautions will you take during the work, and who will clean up at the end?

If you don’t want to stress over finding a good contractor, let RenoAssistance take care of it for you. Each of our contractors has passed our 53-point Verification Process, the most comprehensive vetting procedure in the industry!

How is masonry work done?

There’s a lot that goes into (re)building stone or brick siding. From preparing the work site to cleaning up debris, here’s what you can expect during your masonry renovation project.

1. Work zone preparation

Every renovation starts with preparing the work site, and masonry is no exception. Before the workers are scheduled to start your project, be sure to put away anything stored next to or against your home. Also cover up any plants or shrubs you don’t want to get damaged.

To avoid any extra fees, accommodate your contractor, as well. If possible, give them a space to park and set up their equipment near your home. Take some time to show them where they can access running water, electricity, and a bathroom, too.

2. Removal of existing siding

First things first, your mason and their team will dismantle the existing exterior cladding. If it’s in good condition, you can donate it to Habitat for Humanity or reuse it in your project to cut down on material costs. Otherwise, your options are recycling and/or disposal. After a bit of cleaning, it’s time to build the base.

3. Structural and waterproofing repairs 

A brick or stone wall is only as good as its base layer. To ensure that the exterior cladding will last for many decades, the mason will take some time to inspect the waterproofing and structural supports. They’ll replace all damaged components to ensure that the structure is strong and watertight.

They’ll be focusing on three components: the waterproofing membrane, flashing, and anchors. The membrane and flashing work together to keep water out of your building envelope, while the anchors keep the wall stable.

4. Stone or brick siding construction

Your mason will start by taking a few measurements to determine where your brick joints should line up. Then, the building can begin. The contractors will add anchors, waterproofing membrane, and joint sealer where needed as they build the wall with brick/stone and mortar.

5. Construction site clean-up

After the siding is built and dry, the contractors will clean up any messy mortar and collect all remaining building supplies from the work site. Now all that’s left is to embrace your home’s curbside appeal!

Quality brick work, guaranteed

From purchases to contract signings, every transaction is covered by legal warranties under the Consumer Protection Act. When you buy something from a business, the product has to be fit for the purpose, of reasonable quality, durable for a reasonable period of time, and as described by the merchant. It’s illegal for a contractor to misrepresent the services they provide and the products they use. As a consumer, you have rights!

Warranty registration

Your mason or bricklayer will register any applicable product and service warranties and provide you with the certificate(s) at the end of your project. For example, new builds will come with a Tarion warranty. Keep the originals in a safe place and scanned copies on your computer for good measure. If any issues arise, reach out to your contractor to see what they can do.

Some companies also offer their own guarantees or warranties on stone and brickwork, including chimney rebuilds, brick repointing, and interior stone repair. This will vary from business to business, so be sure to ask about it.

Our no-cost Renovation Guarantee

If the legal and product warranties aren’t enough, RenoAssistance also has you covered. If you live in Quebec and hire one of our Verified Contractors, you’re eligible for our no-cost Renovation Guarantee. Some conditions apply.

For durable, resistant masonry

Whether you’re in it for the durability or added curbside appeal, stone or brick siding makes a statement. It’s one of the most resilient options available on the market and can increase the value of your home. So, take good care of it and get regular inspections done like you would with any other part of your home’s exterior. After all, the earlier you catch an issue, the easier (and often cheaper) it is to correct!

Now that you’re familiar with the renovation process, common issues to look out for, and types of brick and stone on the market, you might be wondering what’s next. Well, that’s up to you! If you’re ready to take the plunge, then it might be time to find the right masonry contractor for your home. Want to continue browsing exterior siding ideas? Check out some of our favourite completed projects.